This is a post about my recent trip to Costa Rica!
It's day #1 in Costa Rica, and JR & I are about to embark on the journey to Pacuare for a week of sea turtle volunteering. The organization we are volunteering with has an office in San Jose, where we are headed for orientation/introductions. So we get up, check out of the hostel, and K the hostel driver gives us a ride to the address. But it's not really an address, it's more like "go 200 meters north of this really vague location, then go 50 meters east of that, then there's a green house." On the way there, K has to pull over, call someone, and proceed to get what I can only imagine are more specific and/or descriptive directions to a place with no address. We do eventually get there, and K heads on his merry way.
We meet D, aka the welcoming committee. He shows us a presentation about the project at Pacuare, and about sea turtles in general. It was pretty informative and complete with lots of color glossy photographs with circles and arrows (but no paragraph on the back of each one). At this point I was getting really excited to see sea turtles, even at 7am, and looking forward to the upcoming adventures. After our orientation, we find an ATM where we get more colones for the trip, and then head to the bus station (via taxi) to get our 9am bus to Bataan. Once we are in Bataan, we will meet a rastafarian man at an ice cream shop near a soccer field. We think that seems pretty obvious, so we head out.
At the bus station about to head to Bataan
At the bus station, we buy our tickets to Bataan, and it costs 2880 colones, which is roughly $5. Pretty cheap for a 2 hour bus ride! The ride is pretty, and passes through mountains, and is pretty quiet. The random stops are not labeled, so each one is a guessing game of "is this Bataan?" Turns out the bus route ends in Bataan so that ended up being fairly easy! When we do get to Bataan, we aren't sure that we're in the right place but the rasta man finds us, and he knows my name, so he must be the right guy.
There's another volunteer meeting rasta man, now named R, and she's also from the States. So the 3 of us (me, JR, and our new friend T) wait in the ice cream shop while R fetches the taxi. We watch Animal Planet en espanol, while we pretend to ignore this guy who is being weird, and wait for R to return. He does return, in a pickup truck that we assume is the "taxi", but really looks like a buddy of his with a truck. They seem nice, so we throw our backpacks in the bed of the truck and hop in. Besides, they knew my name without asking so somebody did tell them we were coming and it's not just a random guy trying to steal us. Right?
Exhibit A: Things you don't tell your mom about #1
Off we go, without so much as a word, and head to this boat launch we've heard about to begin the water transportation part of our journey. We end up on this super bumpy gravel road and ride for about 30 minutes. We pass a LOT of bananas (yum) and people walking and enjoy seeing Costa Rica from the back of a random pickup truck. It is a random pickup truck, and a totally bizarre situation for 3 inexperienced girls from the States, but we figure there's 3 of us and they seem nice so we'll be fine. Eventually, we arrive at the boat launch, and get ready for the boat ride to the project.
On the boat at the launch, before the ride to the project
The boat seems mostly water tight, and is a pretty blue color, and R seems to know what he's doing so we just hang out and wait while they prepare the boat for the ride. They tell us its a 45 minute boat ride, which isn't so bad since I always spend time on boats, and it's a totally new environment, and that's always exciting! Once we're on the boat, and R gets us moving, we head down these canals and eventually into a river.
Canal in Pacuare
on Rio Pacuare, with R in the background & happiness in the foreground
After 45 minutes, we do arrive at the project. It's really a dirt docking area with a small wooden dock, and cool looking structures nearby. One of the research assistants, D, meets us at the water edge. She seems really nice and welcomes us to the project. She shows us around, we drop off our bags, check out the not-so-bath-or-room bathroom, and get settled in. We arrive around 1 so we've missed lunch at this point and are pretty hungry, but there's not much we can do at that point about it. So we set up our mosquito nets on the bunks and get ready for our patrol training at 4pm.
My bunk at the project
The common area has 6 hammocks and several picnic tables, so we head to there and read for awhile. There's random people napping in hammocks, and wandering around, and going to/from the beach. Nobody really says much to us, but I later realize that it's just the nature of the project. Everyone comes and everyone goes and nobody really makes a big fuss over new people. So we sit, and read, and relax, and then we have patrol training.
Patrol training is quite literally training for the night patrols. We go over protocols for light usage (don't do it), camera usage (don't do it), and clothing choices (always dark clothes). Then, using the model leatherback turtle, D shows us how a nesting turtle is processed. In this case processing means collecting the data, eggs, and measurements from the turtle. They PIT tag the turtles, which is really common technology in fisheries, but everyone is in awe of how cool it is. We also get a tour of the facilities, complete with a rescue center that has a hawksbill sea turtle in it.
concrete leatherback, smaller than average size
Dinner is around 6pm, and it's delicious. Mostly because the lady was a wonderful cook, but also because we were starving. So we totally devour the food (or at least I did). Our patrol shift meets at 730, and we're supposed to be going with a guide + a research assistant. After dinner we go back to our room, relax, and then at 730 we meet at the picnic tables, which is where all patrols meet. There's two guys sitting there, waiting for volunteers. The project uses local guys to lead volunteer groups & research assistants up and down the beach, because they are used to the conditions, know the beach, and know each other so they are full of valuable information. Our guide for the night is V, and we've been told he speaks no English. And I only speak minimal Spanish, so that's a challenge. The research assistant that is supposed to join us doesn't show, and at 745 our guide V just says "vamos chicas!"
So what do we do? Naturally, we follow V off into the darkness down the beach. Naturally.
It was weird, following a random guy because he said "vamos chicas", but I feel like everything and everyone was who they said they were, so we must be fine. Surely some random guy that has nothing to do with the project didn't conveniently know exactly what time to show up to whisk us away to the darkness. Right?
The patrol shift we were on is the longest stretch. It requires a long (2-3km) walk to the edge of our beach section, plus several kilometers of back and forth patrol in our section, and then the long walk back to the research station. It's a really long walk, in sand, in the dark, and when we were already pretty tired, but we definitely power through it because we might spot sea turtles!
Mid-April is leatherback nesting season, so we've been told that's mostly (if not all) of the species we will see. Leatherbacks are massive, and the idea of seeing such a large turtle is really exciting to me. They are harder to see than you would think, especially under the cover of mostly darkness. We walk for awhile, and pass a few poachers, and eventually we stumble upon a disturbance in the sand.
The disturbance is the trail of a nesting leatherback!
different turtle trail, but this is what the disturbance around a nest looks like
She was huge. And we watched her for 20 minutes move up the beach, dig around, scoop sand, move some more, readjust... and then not nest. She decided this place wasn't going to work for whatever reason, and then made her way back into the sea.
We ended up seeing 2 more turtles that night as well. The second one wasn't in our section, but was nearby, so we walked over. She was laying, but a poacher had beaten the research team there. The poachers & researchers have an agreement: whoever gets there first gets the eggs, but the researchers can take measurements, tag the turtle, and collect other data for any turtles. So for that turtle, the poacher got there first so he got the eggs, but the research team still got to measure and tag the turtle. The third turtle we saw was on our way back, at like 1am, as we were rushing down the beach trying to beat the thunderstorm back. We walked right up on her, but she either didn't lay or it had already been poached, so we continued back.
We were so excited to see a leatherback on our first night, let alone 3! It was positively amazing. Totally worth the crazy taxi-bus-boat ride and all the walking. It was a crazy day, and a crazier night, and an absolutely phenomenal experience.